BBQ

Asian Sticky Baby Back Ribs Sous Vide

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I have been thinking about doing this recipe for a couple of months after having some Sweet and Sour Spare Ribs during my Asian cooking boot camp at the Culinary Institute of America.  There are tons of recipes out on the web for Asian Sticky Ribs and, of course, none of them agree on how to do anything.  That’s okay, because I only use them for inspiration. I always end up taking my own road.

I kept my ingredients simple since this was the first time making Asian Sticky Ribs.  Next time, I may start it venture out a little.  I used commercially available Chinese Five-spice.  You can experiment with the flavor profile by actually using the base spices (star anise, Szechuan peppercorns, fennel, clove, and cinnamon) and varying the amounts. 

Ribs need a low and slow cook to become tender.  I chose to do the basic cooking Sous Vide since I can control time and temperature precisely.  The other thing that nobody agrees on is time and temperature for ribs.  The Sous Vide community seems to fall into two camps: The ~140F group and the ~165F group.  The former tend to cook their ribs for 24-48 hours and the later for 4-12 hours.  This is my first time with Baby Backs Sous Vide so I went with 160F for 12 hours in the dry rub and then finished them on the grill with the sticky sauce.  You can chose your method, time and temp of cooking.  The important point is having tender ribs that melt in your mouth and, of course, stick to your fingers. 

I wanted to maximize the surface area for the sticky sauce so I cut the rack into individual ribs before coating the ribs.  For ease of grilling, the two half-rack pieces can be left whole until ready to plate. 

I served my ribs over a Spicy Asian slaw (recipe that I picked up at the CIA and tweaked) and Japanese Potato Salad (recipe in the May/June issue of Milk Street magazine).  [As a side note, I run hot and cold on Cook’s Illustrated; however, I love Chris Kimball’s new effort.  He has taken on international cuisine and it doing an excellent job of bringing it into the American kitchen.  If you don’t already subscribe to the magazine and podcast, you are truly missing out on a fantastic culinary discussion. . . . Free advertisement complete.]

Wow, this is a keeper.  The meat was moist and tender and easily pulls away from the bone leaving it totally clean.  The sauce was not really sticky, but the flavor profile is definitely there.  You can taste the anise, the soy sauce and Hoisin.  The savory flavors of the ribs played well with the insane crunchiness and heat of the slaw and the cool, crunchiness of the potato salad.  Every bit was an explosion of flavor and texture.

Ingredients: 

  • 1 rack of Baby Back Ribs
  • Yellow Mustard
  • Dry Rub:
  • 1/4 cup Dark Brown Sugar
  • 1 Tbsp Chinese Five-spice
  • 1 Tbsp Kosher Salt
  • Sticky Sauce:
  • 1/3 cup Soy Sauce
  • 1/3 cup Honey
  • 1/4 cup Hoisin Sauce
  • 2 Tbsp Rice Vinegar
  • 3 tsp Chinese Five-spice

Directions:

  1. Prepare the Baby Back Ribs by removing the membrane from the back of the rack.
  2. Cut rack into two pieces for ease of Sous Vide bagging.
  3. In a small bowl, combine the Dry Rub ingredients and mix well.
  4. Slather ribs generously on both side with yellow mustard.
  5. Coat both sides of the ribs with the dry rub and rub to evenly coat.
  6. Place ribs into a the Sous Vide bags and vacuum seal.`
  7. Refrigerate ribs for 8 hours or overnight.
  8. Prepare your Sous Vide cooking vessel and preheat water to 160F.
  9. Remove the ribs from the refrigerator and place into the Sous Vide bath for 12 hours.
  10. Near the end of the Sous Vide cooking time, combine the Sticky Sauce ingredients in a small bowl and mix well.
  11. At the end of 12 hours, remove the ribs from the Sous Vide bath, remove ribs from the bags and place on paper towels on a cutting board. Let ribs dry for 15 minutes.
  12. Meanwhile, fire up the grill for high heat cooking.
  13. When the ribs are somewhat dry, cut the rack into individual ribs and place in a large bowl.
  14. Pour the Sticky sauce into the bowl with the ribs and gently toss to thoroughly coat.
  15. Place the ribs on the grill and cook until the sauce has thickened and become sticky.  Recoat the ribs with the left-over sauce until it is gone.
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Peruvian Rotisserie Chicken (Pollo a la Brasa)

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Photo Aug 22, 8 14 37 PM

It was the inaugural meal for our new Weber 2290 rotisserie for the Weber Performer. I had to give it a spin (pun intended) as soon as it arrived.

The recipe was not mine so I will link to it instead of publishing it. The credit for this one goes to Mike Vrobel at DadCooksDinner.com. The recipe for Peruvian Rotisserie Chicken can be found here: Pollo a la Brasa.
I made it without the drip pan potatoes, but I am sure they would have been awesome.

The key to this recipe is the Aji Amarillo paste. I was lucky enough to find it at Wegmans. Now I did make a few adaptations to the procedure. I marinaded the chicken for 24 hours. For the first 20 hours, I had the chicken in a one gallon sealed storage bag. For the final 4 hours, I removed the chicken from the bag and let the chicken skin dry out. This produces a crispier skin.

Photo Aug 22, 8 12 54 PM

In addition to lump charcoal in the Weber Performer, I used some soaked applewood chips for some added flavor. After 1 ½ hour of cooking, the chicken was moist, tender and absolutely delicious.

Photo Aug 22, 8 13 50 PM

DadCooksDinner.com has numerous rotisserie recipes. Pollo a la Brasa will be the first of many that I’ll have to try now that the rotisserie is in place. I already have an order in place from the in-laws for a rotisserie roast beef.

My First Time — Smoking Brisket that is: The Verdict

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Beef Brisket just before it came off the smoker

Well, it took some research and common sense and the verdict is guilty of moist, tender brisket.  The brisket was tender yet sliceable which is what I was looking for.  About the only change I would make next time is to trim the fat cap.  There was quite a bit of fat left after smoking which means it was not all melting and basting the brisket.  I think those who advocate trimming all but a 1/4 inch are probably on to something.  Besides, when I trimmed the remaining fat, I took off a layer of dry rub.

The Minion method (see previous post) worked great.  I needed to follow the method a little closer and close down the bottom vents to 25% when the temp got to 200, but I was able to easily maintain a 225-250 temp throughout 5 1/2 hours and there was plenty of fuel left for further cooking, if necessary.

To be fair, the brisket failed the grand-kitty test.  The kittens turned up their noises at it until I trimmed off both the bark and the smoke ring.  They sat there looking at me with a look that said, you can’t be seriously eating it that way.  Oh well, more for me.

My First Time — Smoking Brisket that is: Cornbread

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When I think BBQ, I think cornbread on the side and it’s one of the better-half’s favorites.  So while the brisket was smoking, I headed into the kitchen to whip up some corn batter.

A local restaurant does a cornbread with corn kernels in it and it adds texture and moisture.  I know some recipes call for cream corn, but that just seems wrong when local corn is fresh.  Since I already had the smoker going, I put an ear of corn on the bottom rack of the smoker for 20-25 minutes.  The smokiness of the corn should help tie the flavors of the meal together.  I also added a finely chopped jalapeno to the batter for some added spiciness.

Brisket, cornbread, Texas Ranchero beans and grilled corn for dinner.

My First Time — Smoking Brisket that is: Smoking

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The day has come.  It’s smokin’ time.  The brisket has been getting happy in the dry rub and the sauce has been melding and mellowing.  Time to get the smoker ready.  I have a Weber Smoky Mountain Smoker.  Controlling the temperature in the smoker depends on wind, outside temperature, humidity and how often you open the smoker.  As a result, I will not be mopping.  Mopping requires opening the cooker and results in a significant temperature drop.  I am still torn over the decision on using the Texas crutch. The purist in me screams, NO.  The pragmatist says, it cuts time and ensures moisture and tenderness and, thus, makes sense.  I’ll have to make a decision within the next 3-4 hours.

I’m using the Minion Method for fuel for the first time and hope that it lives up to its billing and helps control the temperature.  I have always had problems maintaining a low enough temperature using the traditional “lit charcoal under unlit” method.  I am hoping this makes the day painless.  It would be nice to be able to shoot a quick 9 holes of golf without worrying about the temperature or fuel level of the smoker.  At 1 1/2 hr in, I am impressed by the method’s ability to maintain a low, even temperature.

The smoke today is courtesy of hickory and mesquite.  I wanted to use oak with the hickory, but could not find any oak chunks on short notice.  I could have used apple or cherry, but I think I will save those for pork.

Now it is just a matter of time.

My First Time — Smoking Brisket that is: Saucing

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To sauce or not to sauce; that is the question.  The old-timer Texas brisket fans ate their brisket nekked.  The dry rub and smoke gave the flavor.  My ribs need no sauce, but I have to admit that I often slather on some Dinosaur sauce.  The problem with sauce on brisket is that most of the commercial BBQ sauces are too sweet for brisket.  For brisket, you need savory and to hold off on the excessive heat.  The sauce should compliment the meat.

Sauces are one of those items on which BBQ enthusiasts enjoy disagreeing.  I prefer traditional BBQ sauce for ribs and Eastern North Carolina BBQ sauce for pulled pork.  Don’t confuse tomato based North Carolina BBQ sauce with real Eastern North Carolina BBQ sauce.  True North Carolina BBQ sauce is simply vinegar infused with red pepper flakes. With pulled pork, add some collards, corn bread and hush puppies and you have heaven on earth.  In Western NC, they add some ketchup to the sauce and you start the slippery slope toward traditional BBQ sauce.

One of the advantages of sauce is that it moistens tough and dry brisket and brisket is difficult to make tender and moist.  To be on the safe side, I prepared some sauce.  But what sauce to prepare?

I decided to try Texas BBQ Juice.  This sauce is inspired by the sauce they make at Cooper’s Old Time Bar-B-Que in Llano, Texas.  This sauce can be used as a mop while cooking and a BBQ sauce when eating.  I’m not mopping, but I am eating.

This is not BBQ sauce as most people think of it.  Most BBQ sauce has a heavy tomato sauce base with plenty of sugar and some spices.  This is a brown sauce which Cooper’s actually refers to as a pepper sauce.

I halved the recipe and replaced the green bell pepper with a poblano for some additional spice and used maple sugar in place of the brown sugar.  I also inadvertently did not half the beer, oh well.  The first taste before it simmered was HOT.  After simmering for 15 minutes, the flavors melded and smoothed out.  It should be even better tomorrow after aging in the frig over night.

My First Time — Smoking Brisket that is: Preparation

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I never smoked a beef brisket before.  It takes quite a bit of time and that tends to be something of which I am short.  I decided to tackle the task on Labor Day weekend.

Probably the only thing on which BBQ enthusiasts can agree is that BBQ enthusiasts can agree on nothing.  When it comes to brisket, there are devotees on both side of every issue:  whole packer, flat or point; trim the fat cap or leave it be; smoke fat up or fat down;  dry rub or not; dry rub the day before or just before slapping the meat on the smoker; mop or don’t mop; use the Texas crutch or not; sauce or nekked; and the arguments go on.  I guess the good thing is no matter what you do, someone will call it genius.  It also leaves plenty of room for experimentation and that means many good and possibly some bad meals to come.

Whole packer, flat or point was decided for me by Wegmans.  They only had flats in the case.  I probably could have ordered a whole packer, but that would have taken planning ahead and inspiration hit too late.  Trim or not:  I like the argument that leaving the fat lets it melt and baste the brisket as it cooks.  I cross hatched the fat layer down to the meat so that I could get some dry rub on that side, but left it intact this time.  Once cooked, I will trim off the fat.  My only fear is that some of that smoky goodness will disappear when I trim the fat.

I always dry rub my smoked meat.  My ribs need no sauce because the rub adds so much flavor during the cooking.  Pork and beef are different beasts so the rub should be distinct.   In particular, a beef dry rub should have less sweetness.  I lined up some popular brisket rub recipes and did some compare and contrast.  There were ingredients on which all agreed.  They went in.  There were differences that I judged on personal preference and then I added some of my own.

My rub ended up as below:

  • 2 tablespoons Kosher Salt
  • 1 teaspoon Maple Sugar
  • 1 teaspoon Ground cumin
  • 3 tablespoon Black pepper
  • 2 teaspoons Ancho chili powder
  • 1 tablespoon Onion powder
  • 2 teaspoons Garlic powder
  • 1 teaspoon Chipotle chili powder
  • 2 teaspoons Mustard Powder

I like my rub to have time to permeate the meat so I did it 36 hours in advance.  I rubbed the brisket with some EVOO, rubbed in the dry rub, wrapped it tightly in plastic wrap and put it in the refrigerator.  There it sits getting happy until I fire up the smoker tomorrow morning.