The genesis of this recipe was Moroccan Chicken Smothered In Olives from the New York Times. The basic ideas of the recipe seemed sound, but the suggested execution lacking. I did not brine my chicken. Maybe it would have been better, but my version was moist and flavorful without the additional step. I also did not just throw the ingredients into a casserole and braise it. I took a more classic approach and seared my chicken and cooked down my onions and garlic. I also started on the stove top, cooked in the oven and finished back on the stove top, as I often do.
Many of the reviews of the original recipe complained about a bland sauce. I can’t imagine how they achieved that result unless they opted not to reduce the sauce at the end and failed to adjust their seasoning. I used only half of the spices from the original recipe since it just seemed like too much and I had great flavors. I also did not blanch my olives as recommended which undoubtedly helped add flavor. Why would one want to extract the briny taste of the olives? I also added salt and pepper up front and at the end. I seasoned my meat before I seared it and adjusted the seasoning when reducing the sauce.
The original recipe was undoubtedly a little lower in calories and lower in sodium, but according to reviews lacked flavor. Give me a few more calories and better taste any day. I would gladly spend a few extra minutes in the gym than sacrifice flavor in my food.
I betrayed a basic principles here: try a recipe as written at least once and then adjust from there. I often abandoned this rule, but this one begged for upfront revision. A lack of seasoning and making sauce reduction optional just begged for substandard results.
- 8 skinless, boneless chicken thighs
- Salt and pepper
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 onions, peeled, halved and sliced
- 1 teaspoon ground ginger
- 1 teaspoons ground turmeric
- 1 teaspoons ground cumin
- 1/2 tablespoon Spanish sweet paprika
- 4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
- 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
- 11 ounces pitted green olives in brine, drained and halved
- Juice of 1 lime
- Salt and pepper, to taste
- Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
- Salt and pepper both sides of chicken pieces.
- In bottom of a large pan, heat oil over medium-high heat.
- Add chicken pieces and brown on all sides.
- Remove chicken to a plate.
- Add onions and sauté until softened and translucent.
- Add chicken back to pan.
- Add chicken broth. Sprinkle with ginger, turmeric, cumin, paprika, and garlic. Place over high heat to bring to a boil.
- Cover and move to oven for 30 minutes, turning chicken once.
- Turn chicken again and add olives and lime juice to chicken, and cook uncovered for another 10 minutes.
- Remove chicken to a platter and keep warm.
- Transfer pan to the stove-top and raise temperature to an aggressive simmer to reduce adding salt and pepper to taste. Thicken sauce to 1/4th or less in the volume.
- Pour sauce over chicken and serve hot.
This adventure started with a Mushroom and Burrata Lasagnette recipe by Alison Roman published in the October 2015 issue of Bon Appetit. Ms. Roman admits her recipe is “indulgent” and, I am sure, delicious, but what I was going for is something much lower in fat and healthier. I not only want to “live a little,” but live a little longer.
Gone is the butter and olive oil. Gone is the heavy cream. In place of the heavy cream, I used a cauliflower cream (basically pureed cauliflower). If you don’t want to go to the trouble of making the cauliflower cream, substitute back in 1/4 cup of heavy cream. In place of the burrata, I used mozzarella. I am sure the extra creaminess of the burrata adds to the decadence, but would get lost in the lasagnette. For added nutrition, I added spinach to the recipe.
The other major change is the serving size. As published, the recipe indulgently serves 2 people. I used a little larger casserole dish and it yielded 6 large servings.
You can use dried lasagna noodles. Simply cook them until al dente according to package instructions before assembling the lasagna. I have sworn off store-bought pasta in favor of homemade. It’s really not that difficult to make and the taste and texture is far superior its store-bought relative. I used Bob’s Red Mill 100% stone ground whole wheat organic flour for the pasta. Bob’s Red Mill flour is ground finely enough to give you light, delicate pasta even using 100% whole wheat.
2 pounds mixed mushrooms, cut into bite-size pieces
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 large shallot, finely chopped
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/2 Tbsp fresh rosemary, finely chopped
1 cup fat-free ricotta
1/4 cup cauliflower cream
1/4 fresh nutmeg, grated
2 tsp. fresh thyme
14 oz frozen cut leaf spinach, thawed and squeezed dry
12 fresh lasagna noodles (about 10 x 4 inches)
8 ounces fresh mozzarella, torn into pieces
1 1/2 ounces Parmesan, finely grated
1) Preheat oven to 425°.
2) Add mushrooms to a large skillet over medium-high heat. Season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid has been absorbed, about 10-15 minutes.
3) Add shallot, wine and rosemary and again cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid has been absorbed, about 5-10 minutes.
4) Combine ricotta, cauliflower cream, nutmeg and thyme in a small bowl; season with salt and pepper.
5) Working in batches, cook fresh lasagna noodles in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until just softened, about 30 seconds.
6) Spread a thin layer of ricotta mixture in a 10 x 8 x 3 casserole dish and top with a 2 lasagna noodles side by side. Spread a large spoonful of ricotta mixture over pasta, layer with 1/6 of the mushrooms, spinach and mozzarella. Top evenly with 1/6 of the Parmesan. Repeat layering process 5 more times finishing with the last of the Parmesan and grinding on fresh pepper, to taste.
7) Cover casserole with foil and bake until warmed through, about 15-20 minutes. Remove foil and continue baking until golden brown, 20-25 minutes.
8) Let cool at least 5 minutes and serve.
Why cauliflower cream? It’s lower in calories that a Béchamel Sauce. It’s neutral in taste so takes well to additions like cheese. It’s healthy. And it’s different.
I have done quite a bit of experimentation substituting fat-free Greek Yogurt for white sauces with a consistent result: The sauce separates and ends up runny with clumpy cheese. Cauliflower cream solves this issue while remaining fat-free.
I used the above sauce in a Mushroom and Spinach Lasagna. I also plan on using some in a lower calorie Macaroni and Cheese. You can substitute cauliflower cream in any recipe that calls for a white sauce except maybe a gravy.
The process is easy.
1 head cauliflower
1) Wash and chop a head of cauliflower.
2) Place cauliflower florets into salted water and bring to a boil.
3) Reduce heat, cover and simmer for 15-20 minutes, until fork tender.
4) Drain cauliflower reserving 2 cups of the cooking liquid
5) In a food processor, puree cauliflower adding reserved liquid, as needed, to desired consistency
I have been on a Mediterranean kick lately. Not only is the food healthy, but they have some intriguing flavor combinations. When exploring Mediterranean cooking, Moroccan food is mandatory. I fell in love with Moroccan food years ago at Epcot in Disney World. I know an “international experience” at Epcot is rather lame, but at the time Epcot did grant exposure to the world to rather insular Americans which I was at the time.
Moroccan cooking uses typical spices of the region: cumin, coriander, cinnamon, allspice, saffron, and nutmeg. They also use fruits in their cooking which seems somewhat unique. For this recipe, I was looking for the right savory spice profile balanced with some sweetness from the fruit. I was looking for the balance to tip more to the savory than sweet.
A tagine is a Moroccan dish named after the traditional earthenware pot in which it is traditionally cooked. So I guess this recipe is not really a “Chicken Tagine”. It is a “Chicken Dutch Oven.” I don’t have a traditional earthenware tagine, but can use the traditional ingredients and spices and find an appropriate, if not traditional, vessel in which to cook them.
I used whole spices, toasted and ground them. You could use store-bought ground spices. As long as they are fresh, the flavor profile should be okay.
I have a niece that is allergic to apricots. Other dried fruits can be substituted. I would stay away from overly sweet fruits. Dried papaya, mango, or pear would be interesting. Dried strawberries would be a different twist, but I would probably crank back on the orange juice. I wanted to add some pomegranates, but, sadly, couldn’t find any.
Concerning dried fruits, I have discovered that most are heavy in chemical preservatives. I tend toward their organic cousins that have nothing but fruit. Without fail, if my wife has a head-ache, I can trace it to a food label I did not read closely enough the prior day. You could read that as, if my wife has a head-ache, it’s probably my fault. But then again, that’s a given.
This meal was great on the first night and even better as leftovers the second as the spices intensified.
I served the tagine over whole wheat Israeli Couscous with some whole wheat garlic Naan. Yes, I know Israeli Couscous and Naan are not Moroccan, buy it made for a delicious meal.
1 Tbsp Olive Oil
4 Chicken Legs, separated into Thighs and Drumsticks
1 Onion, chopped
1 Small Hot Pepper, minced
1 cup Dried Apricots, roughly chopped
3/4 cup Fresh Dates, pitted and roughly chopped
3/4 cup Raisins
2 Tsp whole Cumin seeds
2 Tsp whole Coriander seeds
3 inch stick of Cinnamon
2 pinches of Saffron
10 Allspice Seeds
1 Tsp freshly grated Nutmeg
3 Cups Apple Cider
3 Cups Water
Juice of 1 Orange
Salt and Pepper, to taste
1) Heat Olive Oil in a Dutch Oven over medium-high heat.
2) Salt and Pepper chicken and place in the Dutch Oven. Brown on all sides, approximately 10 minutes.
3) Meanwhile, toast spices in a hot, dry skillet until fragrant and lightly browned. Remove spices to a mortar and grind with a pestle or pop into your handy, dandy spice grinder. Pre-ground spices are acceptable, but fresh ground are better.
4) When browned, remove chicken from Dutch Oven and reserve. Add onion and peppers and sauté until soft, about 5 minutes.
5) Add ground spices to the onions and peppers and cook for an additional minute.
6) Return chicken to the Dutch Oven. Add fruit, orange juice and enough half-cider, half-water mixture to cover. Increase heat to a boil and the reduce to a simmer. Cook for 45 minutes. If more liquid is needed during cooking, add cider and water in equal proportions.
7) Remove chicken to a plate and cover to keep warm.
8) Increase heat on Dutch Oven to a boil and reduce broth for 10 minutes.
9) Serve chicken plated over couscous and top with the reduced broth.
It’s all in the cutting: a baked potato with some visual flair and did I mention simple to do? This dramatic presentation of the simple potato was introduced by the Hasselbacken Hotel in Stockholm, Sweden in the 1940’s. (This sort of begs the question of why it’s not called a Hasselbacken Potato, but nobody asked me.) It has caught the recent culinary eye of the US with the increase of food porn on Instagram, Pinterest and Facebook.
The key to the Hasselback is making thin slices of the baking potato without slicing through to the bottom. You want to stop about 1/4 inch before slicing through. To aid me in cutting, I place the potato on the counter between two cutting boards and cut down to the boards. I have heard of people doing the same with chop sticks, but I found them too thin and ended up with sliced potatoes.
Once the potatoes are cut, I run them under cold water to remove some of the starch and pat them dry. From there, your options are open. For the pictured potato, I simply sprayed it which Olive Oil and sprinkled it with Kosher Salt. You can add your favorite herbs, butter and/or maybe some cheese between the slices. Let your imagination run wild.
I bake them at 400 degrees F. for 45-60 minutes or throw them on the grill on indirect heat until done. As they cook, the slices fan out for a impressive presentation.
The potato is crisp on the outside, a little creamy on the inside and elegant on the plate. Don’t tell your guests how simple it was to make and keep them in awe of your great culinary talents.
There are plenty of recipes for beef börek and plenty for spinach börek, but not so much for beef and spinach borek. So that is the recipe du jour. Okay, let’s backtrack a little. What in the world is a börek?
According to the fount of all knowledge and wisdom, Wikipedia, “Börek … is a family of baked or fried filled pastries made of a thin flaky dough known as phyllo (or yufka). … It was most probably invented in what is now Modern Turkey.” Yes, börek is Turkish, but it has spread. There is Serbian börek and Bulkan börek. There are African and Israeli variations. There are börek, bureks and briks. They are made as pies, spirals, cigar shaped cylinders, triangular or crescent bit size pieces and tarts. What is their essence? A thin flaky crust and some filling. I can work with that!
Back to beef böreks and spinach böreks, my recipe is the best of both worlds; a beef and spinach börek with authentic Mediterranean spices. I used non-fat Feta which is common in spinach böreks, but not beef variations. I also added non-fat Greek yogurt to the egg wash instead of the milk which is more common in beef böreks. I used fresh spinach, but you could use its frozen cousin, thaw it and squeeze out all the liquid.
I developed my own blend of Turkish spices for this recipe and have added the recipe below. For this one, I chose the spiral form since it looks cooler. Doing a simple pie would be easier, but the spiral was much more elegant with little extra effort.
With endless varieties, you can play with this recipe for many delicious meals to come. I served it with a side salad for a simple, delicious and healthy meal.
2 Tbsp. Olive Oil
1 lb. Ground Beef
1 Medium Yellow Onion, chopped
3 Cloves Garlic, minced
2 cups fresh Spinach, finely chopped
1/2 cup Non-fat Feta Cheese, crumbled
3 tsp. Turkish Spice Blend (see below)
Salt and Pepper, to taste
1/2 cup Non-fat Greek Yogurt
2 Large Eggs
1 tsp. Ground Cumin
10 sheets of Phyllo dough
1) Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees F.
2) In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of Olive oil over medium-high heat. Add ground beef and brown until thoroughly cooked.
3) Remove ground beef to a large mixing bowl leaving and liquid in the skillet.
4) Add onions to the skillet and cook until translucent, about 5 minutes.
5) Add garlic to skillet and cook for an additional 1-2 minutes.
6) Strain onions and garlic an add to the mixing bowl with the ground beef.
7) Add the spinach, feta cheese, Turkish spice blend, salt and pepper to the beef mixture and mix thoroughly. Set aside to cool.
8) In a separate mixing bowl, combine 1 tablespoon of Olive oil, the Greek yogurt, eggs and cumin. Whisk until smooth.
9) On a clean dry surface, lay out one layer of phyllo. Brush lightly with the yogurt-egg mixture, top with another layer of phyllo and brush it with the yogurt-egg mixture, as well.
10) Use 1 cup of the ground beef mixture and spread along the long edge of the phyllo to within one inch of each side.
11) Fold the sides over the filling and roll the phyllo into a long cylinder. Roll the cylinder into a spiral and place on a lightly greased sheet pan. Repeat until the ground beef mixture is gone. It should make 5 spirals.
12) Brush the tops of each spiral with the yogurt-egg mixture. Sprinkle with poppy seeds.
13) Bake for 40 minutes until golden brown. Let rest for 5 minutes before serving.
Turkish Spice Blend:
1 tsp. Whole Cumin Seeds
1/2 tsp. Whole Coriander Seeds
2 inch Cinnamon Stick
1/2 tsp. Whole Cloves
1/2 tsp. Whole Allspice
1/2 tsp. Ground Nutmeg
1) In a hot, dry sauce pan, toast all spices except for the nutmeg until fragrant and the cumin is just starting to brown.
2) Place toasted spices into a mortar and pestle.
3) Grate nutmeg into the spice mix.
4) Grind the spices into a fine powder.
The weather has been frigid lately and that demands soup to warm the bones. I had never done a mushroom soup so I decided to give it a go. I used a variety of mushrooms: 1/2 Crimini, 1/4 Shitake and 1/4 rehydrated Porcini. If using dried mushrooms, do not throw away the rehydration liquid. Strain it carefully and use it in place of some of the stock. In my case, I had 1 cup of rehydration liquid and 3 cups of broth. There is no sense in throwing away all that flavor.
I used a semi-dry sherry since the subtle, oaky flavors would go better with the earthiness of the mushrooms than a dry, fruity sherry. The Greek yogurt added some thickening and richness without the fat of regular or sour cream.
It’s not Campbell’s Cream of Mushroom (that is a good thing), but it was Mm, Mm, Good! I served it along side a pork loin roast stuffed with spinach, mushrooms and shallots, but it really could be a meal all by itself.
1 Tbs. unsalted butter
1 Tbs. olive oil
3 medium shallots, diced
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 lb. fresh wild mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed and thinly sliced
2 Tbs. fresh Rosemary
4 cups homemade chicken broth
1/4 cup non-fat Greek Yogurt
1/4 cup semi-dry sherry
Salt and pepper, to taste
1) Melt the butter and olive oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and cook until translucent, about 5 minutes.
2) Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 minute.
3) Reserve several slices of mushroom for the garnish and add the rest of the mushrooms and rosemary to the pot and cook until the mushrooms are soft, about 5 minutes.
4) Add the broth, deglaze the pan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes.
5) Remove from the heat and let cool slightly.
6) Transfer about half of the soup to a food processor and puree until smooth.
7) Return the mixture to the pot and stir in the Greek yogurt and sherry. Salt and pepper, to taste, and reheat.
8) Garnish each serving with a couple of slices of reserved mushrooms.